South of Ösh on the border with Tajikistan lies the Trans-Alay range which forms the most northern part of the Pamirs and is home to the 7134 m Pik Lenin. This magnificent peak looks down over the Alay valley, home to many nomadic Kyrgyz living in Yurts and known for their horse farming along with the local speciality of fermented horse milk known as Kumis.
Pik Lenin logistics
Touted as one of the easier 7000 m mountains on the planet to climb, it is nonetheless logistically challenging requiring determination in addition to a certain amount of luck with the weather. Travel to the Alay valley involves a flight via Istanbul to either Ösh or Bishkek followed by a lengthy taxi drive through the stunning scenery of the Alay Mountains to base camp (BC) 3800 m at the foot of Pik Lenin. At base camp, one can expect delicious Kyrgyz cuisine and comfortable camping facilities provided for by one of the many expedition companies. From base camp begins the acclimatisation training with walks up to the surrounding peaks. Following acclimatisation, the climb up to Pik Lenin can be divided into four stages.
- Stage 1: Trek from base camp (BC) to advanced base camp (ABC) 4450 m via Travellers pass
- Stage 2: Ski touring or mountain trekking from ABC 4450 m along with the so-called ‘Fryingpan’ up to Camp 2 at 5200m
- Stage3: Ski touring or mountain trekking from Camp 2 up to Camp 3 at 6100 m.
- Stage 4: Ski touring or mountain trekking from Camp 3 up to the Pik Lenin summit at 7134 m.
Mountain crevasses and the long haul
Stage 1 involves a breathtaking trek over the Travellers passes to advanced base camp. In most cases, travellers employ the assistance of porters who with their highly skilled horses haul some of the heavy expedition equipment through the steep and slippery mountain passages. This stage is the longest distance of the expedition leading a path through an explosion of colours with fascinating folded geological structures and magnificent glacial formations.
Having arrived in advanced base camp, the prominence of Pik Lenin becomes ever more impressive. In preparation for the up and coming climbs ahead, it is time to soak up the surroundings with local acclimatisation ski tours and enjoy the last of the fine catered Kyrgyzish cuisine.
Stage 2 up and beyond ABC involves a relatively straightforward route across the Pik Lenin glacier and up to Camp 2. Known as the ‘Fryingpan’ this stretch is renowned for the intense midday heat facing climbers still out on the glacier after 11.00. It was a common sight around 14.00 to see straggling climbers desperately shuffling the last hundred meters to Camp 2, simply crippled under
the heat and exhaustion of this stage. To avoid the crippling heat the stage demands a very
early morning start.
The passage between ABC and Camp 2 is probably the most frequented passage of the mountain. On an average expedition, this section of the route will be traversed three times. Not without its perils, the route is exposed to avalanching and riddled crevasses which over the expedition season increase in size and number. It is not uncommon to hear mighty cracking noises and feel the settling of the glacier during this passage.
Onwards and upwards into a blizzard
Onwards from Camp 2 requires further acclimatisation. Ski touring up to the base of the climb to Camp 3 and enjoying the skiing on big open flanks back to Camp 2 was a highlight of the acclimatisation tours. A couple of days are required for acclimatisation and even a descent back to ABC to recover in preparation for the push up to Camp 3. During stage 3 the mountain weather closed in dramatically with snow blizzards and high winds. The push up to Camp 3 at 6100 m extracted a huge effort, and the refuge of a tent was most welcoming.
Blue skies and cruising
Calm after the storm up at Camp 3. The following day presented blue skies and breathtaking views over the Trans-Alay range and south into Tajikistan. Although the weather conditions would have made for an ideal summit attempt, the snow blizzards had filled all tracks for the final stage 4 and along with intense minus temperatures, it rendered an attempt for the summit that day unthinkable. The summit of Pik Lenin was not reached during this expedition. Instead what better to do than enjoy the blue sky conditions and cruise down the mountain in knee-deep powder. After many thousand meters of ascent, the smiles for each turn were worth all the effort, especially when seeing the ascending climbers trudging through the deep snow to Camp 3 that day.
Homeward bound
Safely back through the crevasse fields at advanced base camp (ABC). With a view out over the snowy Lenin peaks, it was time to reflect on the climb and relive the powder. The Kyrgyz Marmots were out to greet us on the return trek through Travellers pass, and on arrival in base camp (BC) there was fresh apricot cheese being prepared on the fire.
More interesting expedition-related reading in the bergzeit.co.uk journal