I can still remember the comments when I was travelling around the world with my first “wide” skis (102 millimetres underfoot and imported from Canada myself ) – in German-speaking ski resorts, they’d ask me “Are they jump skis?” Or “You can’t possibly ski with those!” It was the same five years down the track when I had the first ski with a proper rocker on my feet …

Today, hardly anyone blinks an eye at the powder planks. Ski freeriding has become mainstream and in many places, you can actually see wider skis on ski lifts than a carver. There is hardly a ski manufacturer who doesn’t offer a complete range of freeride skis. Ten years ago – at least in Europe – it was not easy to find a decent freeride ski, however, in today’s market there’s more of a choice. With good reason then, we offer you our Buyer’s Guide to freeride skis!

Basic characteristics of freeride skis

As with all other skis, freeride skis have various elements that influence the characteristics of the type and model of the ski. The waist, resulting in the radius, the preload with rocker and camber and of course, the ski’s construction.

1. Waist

While carving skis are mainly thinner waisted for on-piste or alpine skiing and have a rather tight radius turn, freeride skis have, in most cases, a fatter waist. A radius of under 20 meters is pretty rare. This is due to the fact that a narrow waist won’t help much in soft powder nor does it contribute to the skis gliding easier over crusty or crud snow in off-piste conditions. It is possible to on-piste ski with a wide freeride ski, however the fatter waist would make itself noticeable.

In addition, there are many types of skis where the widest point of the shovel and ski tail is offset towards the centre and the skis are narrower towards the tip and towards the tail. This is known as “tapered”. The skis are shorter and lose some stability at high speeds (especially in heavier snow). However, they are easier to turn in soft snow and easier to master even under difficult conditions.

2. Rocker

Rocker, in the construction of a ski, means that the pre-load at the shovel or tip (tip rocker), ski ends or tail (tail rocker) or the entire ski (full rocker), is reversed, or what’s known as negative. This type of construction is now also an integral part of today’s freeride ski technology. No wonder. After all, a tip rocker makes for a massive lift in powder snow. In general, rocker suits freeride skiers much more as it makes it easier to pivot and float the ski in deep snow. In particular, a tail rocker or a full rocker increases the overall freedom of movement. It’s safe to say that a little bit of rocker in the tip of the ski will give you some good float if the snow gets soft and a smoother ride when the snow is chopped up and cruddy.

When it comes to hard snow and on-piste slopes, however, a more pronounced rocker generally has a problem with ski edges not being able to effectively grip snow surfaces directly. This makes carving more difficult. Even in steep terrain with hard or compacted snow conditions, it can be a challenge to control the ski. Since a wide freeride ski is intended mainly for deep powder snow, it’s a hard task finding one that won’t have at least a pronounced tip rocker.

Especially wide skis, which have almost exclusively been designed for soft powder, usually have a heavily pronounced and longer tip and tail rocker or a full rocker. Even skis, which have been developed especially for freeride skiing in the backcountry, usually have a more pronounced rocker. A tail rocker can especially help to facilitate landing switch in deep snow.

3. Construction

Freeride skis don’t differ too much from an alpine ski. Usually, a solid sandwich construction with the wooden core is used. Light materials are especially used in the construction of very wide models, simply because the skis would be too heavy for the large surface used. There are a few exceptions, but most freeride skis won’t have a metal layer construction. Instead of the relatively heavy fibreglass used by many manufacturers, carbon is used, which gives the ski a lot of “pop” – that is, pre-tension – with less weight albeit also less damping. However, this minus point becomes a plus, when it makes soft powder snow easier to handle …

The freeride ski and its playgrounds

To make the choice of available freeride skis easier, they can be divided into two categories:

Freeride-All-Mountain: The flexible ski for all conditions

It’s not always the case that there’s only deep pow to choose from (we wish). Resort ski conditions are becoming more and more groomed with those horrible death cookies caused by too much snowmaking – or just too many moguls. Maybe there was a hail wind a-blowing or simply just crud snow above the tree line.

Meet the “Freeride-All-Mountain” ski. At 90 to 110 millimetres it’s not too wide underfoot and will ski adequately on virtually all snow conditions. You’ll even have fun with it as an on-piste groomer!

In choosing the right type of freeride ski, you need to take a look at personal preferences. If you’re into schussing – and you have the expertise to match, then a stiffer ski with moderate rocker is recommended. A wider model of this type, such as the Black Crows Corvus or the Fischer Ranger 108 Ti, is, a bit more geared up for powder than a narrower style such as the Scott Punisher 95.

For the more relaxed, laid-back freeride skier who likes easy, pivoting turns at low speeds than a softer, freeride ski with a bit more rocker would be good to look at. Some fine examples of this type of ski can be found in the Salomon QST series. A lighter model, with less weight, should be considered if you’re thinking of strapping it to your back for ski touring purposes. Black Diamond Helio 95 and 105 or a DPS-Ski offer freeride all-mountain skis in this category.

Freeride powder: The pure deep powder ski

A freeride ski that comes out only on really good days, can be found under the category “Freeride-Powder” – wide skis with distinctive rockers. For most skiers, these would more than likely be chosen as a second ski to have on hand, as more often than not snow conditions are more moderate to poor or groomed. Meaning: On most days you’ll have the skis for poorer conditions while the fatter skis offer maximum lift and fun on those perfect pow days!

Of course, there are the more classic models, especially the likes of a tip rocker, such as the Kästle BMX 115 or the Völkl V-Werk Katana. Even in poor snow conditions and on groomed slopes, you’ll get along very well, but the width will be all-too evident. These skis are solid all-rounders, yet are known for performance in big-turns and high-speed.

Easiest to ski, especially through narrow woodland runs are wider freeride skis. They offer maximum lift and are usually equipped with a full rocker. Fine examples are the  K2 Shreditor Powabunga 136 or the Black Crows Nocta. You’ll get plenty of buoyancy out of them and they ski playfully through the deepest of powder snow.

What length should a freeride ski be?

Freeride skis are usually longer than alpine skis or ski touring skis. In the end, ski freeriding comes down to buoyancy and tempo stability as opposed to the lightest possible weight and ski performance. As a guideline one can take approximately his or her own body size. However, especially with highly rockered skis, a longer ski type is manageable, though novices starting out skiing in deep snow will get more benefit out of a shorter, easier to control ski.

A beginner starting out shouldn’t save on the width. A wider ski helps enormously in manoeuvrings around in deep snow. It’s simply more fun! Therefore, however, a solid piste technique is harder to master.

Many manufacturers now offer their own ladies freeride styles. Of course, a ski is independent of gender and the main difference is often in the design. However, the ladies’ models often have the advantage that full-value freeride skis are offered in relatively short lengths. This seems logical for a smaller and lighter skier!

The right freeride binding

Naturally, a suitable binding is an important part of a ski. It’s possible to use a normal alpine ski binding, however, nearly all manufacturers now offer special freeride bindings for tough backcountry skiing. These are not only more solidly built, but also equipped with wider stoppers for the widest of freeride skis. If you are wanting (and only if it’s occasional) to ascend with your freeride skis, then it’s also worth considering a ski touring binding. A suitable ski freeride boot is also recommended!

Conclusion

Of course, you can and should think carefully before you buy a new freeride ski. Nevertheless, all models have both advantages and disadvantages. Which of these are dependent on the purpose of use, as well as skiing style and competence. Remember; the important thing is to get out there and enjoy, so don’t spend more time with the ski selection than with the skiing itself!

Last but not least, we would like to point out that if you are freeriding in the backcountry, it’s a must to have an avalanche backpack with you that includes avalanche safety equipment such as; an avalanche safety beacon, avalanche shovel and probe. Adhering to the safeguards of avalanche avoidance and procedures for the event of an avalanche burial means only one thing: learn it and practice it!